From kettles and stills, clandestine distillates and noble spirits
The history of distillation in the Alpine region begins as early as the Middle Ages. Its roots lie in the mysterious magic of alchemy and in monasteries, where distillates were used in small quantities to make healing tinctures and potions. From there, the knowledge spread to the peasant population as well.
Distillation experienced its peak during the reign of Maria Theresa, when peasants were granted the right to distil a certain amount of tax-free brandy. In their iron and later also copper kettles, they no longer boiled only water for laundry and pig feed. But thanks to a boiler, a cap and a coil, the peasant kettle was transformed into a micro-distillery for domestic use. Downstream, leftovers from viticulture and fruit growing were distilled to make a peasant spirit, often quite coarse. At higher altitudes, distillation focused on roots and herbs and especially on rowan berries, which according to legends had an almost medicinal effect.
As early as around 1900, many small "full-time" distilleries sprang up in South Tyrol and North Tyrol. At first, partly as smugglers, then officially to supply the Wehrmacht during the war years on behalf of the German Reich.
Gottfried Roner – the adventure of a man with a winning idea
It was 1946 when Gottfried built a still in his parents' house. An inflammation in his joint prevented the former winemaker from continuing in his profession, so he decided to seek his fortune in distillation.
A few years earlier he had already run a small distillery with his two brothers in Termeno. Technically advanced, the boilers were already steam-heated, which had the advantage over fire of not burning the distillate.
The location in the middle of the vineyards of the Caldaro Lake (Schiava) and Gewürztraminer was perfect for a grappa distillery.
Grappa is one of South Tyrol's oldest spirits. Rooted in the tradition of the wine industry, the queen of spirits is distilled from the pomace of healthy, fully ripe grapes. "Farmer's Grappa," or in local jargon also "Treber," reflects the diversity of varieties in our wine region. The gentle distillation processes preserve the characteristic flavor of the grape varieties. Therefore, we find the most diverse aromas in single-varietal spirits with protected names, including Gewürztraminer, Lagrein, Schiava or Chardonnay, whether young or aged. Only spirits distilled and processed in Italy from the skins of domestic grapes can be called grappa.
An ancient knowledge makes it possible to reap nature's noblest gifts
After his first successes with grappa production, Gottfried Roner, enthusiastic about his land and its fruits, began macerating roots and berries from the surrounding forests. The fruits were macerated in grappas and stored for up to six months in an old hut. The recipe for Alpler, an herbal bitter, comes from a monk and has been in the family's possession since 1953.
There is a long tradition in the Alps of using the healing properties of herbs and roots and transposing them into spirits. Some of the ancient recipes have remained unchanged to this day. The most popular and well-known herbal distillates are probably those made from mountain pine, stone pine, juniper, and gentian. The history of "gentian grappa" dates back as far as the early 16th century, and for a long time it was considered the elixir of life in mountain regions. At times, its popularity almost led to the plant's extinction – today it is a protected species.
In the late 1950s, after the purchase of a second still, the range was expanded to include a line of fruit distillates. At first it was plums, Williams pears and apricots, but soon other local fruit and berry varieties arrived. The excellent quality of the fruit and Gottfried's natural talent laid the foundation for the unique quality of the Roner distillery's fruit distillates, which still exists today.
One of the most famous fruit distillates is the curiously fascinating "Williams". The crucial question of “How does the pear get into the bottle?” has already occupied entire generations.
In the past, in fact, bottles were hung on pear trees and the fruit grew inside them. Today, this production is no longer sustainable, and, for practical and hygienic reasons, the bottom of the bottle is glued on later.
In the mid-1960s, sons Andreas and Günther Roner joined the family business. Having grown up among the stills and been fortunate enough to inherit their father's exceptionally fine nose, the progress of the Roner distilleries accelerated. Andreas Roner assumed the position of managing director and later president. Günther Roner found his calling as master distiller.
In 1965, due to steadily increasing demand, the grappa distillery was built at the company's current location. Numerous renovations and expansions until, in 2008, the Roner distillery defined its current splendor.
Craftsmanship, handed down from generation to generation
A bottle of grappa is probably present in every South Tyrolean home. As a remedy for colds, toothache, chafing, as a digestive, to end an evening with friends, or even for nervousness. The production of grappa is deeply rooted in our tradition. The art of distillation, recipes and secrets are passed down from generation to generation.
Distillation is a craft: craftsmanship and art. As skilled as a composer, the master distiller arranges all the elements to create a symphony of flavors. The goal is always to maintain the right balance. The ripeness of the fruit, the aromas, the temperature during distillation, the precise separation of the head and tail from the heart of the distillate, the water, the right storage. A distillate with its unique character can be created only when all this is in harmony.
Distillation itself has remained the same process throughout the centuries. What has changed is the process itself. Roner’s main goal is to preserve tradition, but to be open to new technologies and innovations and to use them to constantly improve the quality of distillates and grappas. Today the Roner distilleries are the most awarded distillery in Italy.
Wine is poetry of earth, grappa is its soul...
- Mario Soldati
